Kumano Kodo 2: crabs

Pincers fighting all
Crabs aggressively warn us off
Tall trees watching, don’t care

Last night’s dinner was fabulous. Our sole dining companion was Amy from Washington who was walking the trail because she and her husband, who was killed in an industrial accident two years ago, had always wanted to. She had copies of her husband’s tattoos all up her arms and talks to him as she walks. Which made our reason for the pilgrimage – we like walking – seem, well, tame.

Anyway, off we set this morning into the rain and up the mountain. While we saw no other walkers it quickly became apparent that we were not alone – there were lots of little orange crabs. Now this did come as a surprise given we’re a long way from the coast and up a mountain. It also gives a good indication of just how wet this place is.

The path today took us through towering forests of incredibly straight trees – they are like ships masts made into a forest. There were lots of lovely creeks and several shrines. There were also plaques explaining that someone had mentioned this particular spot in 1042 or 1156: There’s a deep history to the trail.

After a couple of hours we stopped at a little kiosk just before the heavens really opened up. So we ended up meeting quite a few other walkers as we all huddled in the little available shelter. The rain let up a bit and we decided to just push on.

We had lunch in a lovely little open hut overlooking the valley that is today’s destination. A very filling bento box while sitting dry and watching mist rise on the mountains was pretty cool. And upon arriving in Chikatsuyu we even got an excellent coffee.

Our ryokan this evening is a bit more basic – classic tatami mat room with shared facilities- but the hosts have been very welcoming. And there’s a beer to sit with after a shower.